Cyprus: Border Changes

When the latest round of UN-sponsored talks aimed at resolving the division of Cyprus broke up without agreement in March, nobody imagined that just a few weeks later – on April 23 – the Turkish Cypriot leader would suddenly lift movement restrictions across the border that has separated the Greek and Turkish communities since 1974.

Was this a bold experiment in reunification, a symptom of Turkey's desire to join the EU, or a cynical ploy to legitimise the breakaway northern state by forcing Greek Cypriots to present their passports at various checkpoints? Whatever the truth, almost 400,000 people have so far taken advantage of the new freedoms, many of them southerners making journeys to homes, villages and friends not seen in three decades.

Tourists are also heading north. Between 8am and 1pm, passport-carrying pedestrians in Nicosia can cross at the Ledra Palace checkpoint or, upon payment of a CY£10 fee for third-party insurance, take a rental car through at Agios Dometios.

There are two other checkpoints for cars at Pergamos (near Larnaca) and Strovilia. Although it's technically possible to apply for three-day visas, the government takes a dim view of overnighting in Greek Cypriot-owned properties; there's even talk of making this a criminal offence.

Once on the other side, it's worth taking a moment to study the helpful map presented at the border, which shows the Turkish names for towns and villages that have replaced the former Greek names. This can save valuable time when aiming to meet the midnight deadline for returning via the same checkpoint.

An exchange rate of 3 million lira to CY£1 also takes some getting used to. Although shopping sprees in the north are discouraged, a few unlucky tourists - doubtless disoriented at suddenly becoming millionaires - have fallen prey to unscrupulous taxi drivers, among others.

Thus acclimatised, the delights of the north can be comfortably sampled in a day. The ancient city of Salamis, the dramatic Byzantine castle of Kantara and the picture-pretty harbour of Kyrenia (Girne) are all within easy reach, as is the surreal holiday resort cum ghost town of Famagusta (Gazimagusa).

Perhaps the main reason to make the trip to this hugely welcoming - if sadly neglected - part of the island is to experience at first hand the quiet revolution that is slowly but surely unfolding here. Cyprus suddenly feels much bigger and more diverse, and the time to see all of it is now.